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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.